On Sunday night, there was temporary relief in the Spanish capital. Real Madrid had finally secured their first win of the season, coming rather belatedly on matchday three against Granada at home. It capped a week in which Madrid had defeated Barcelona on away goals at the Santiago Bernabéu to lift their first piece of silverware, the Spanish Supercopa. But as journalists in the mixed zone looked for a few quotes and prepared for a slow news spell during the upcoming two-week international break, something altogether unexpected happened. For one, Cristiano Ronaldo who had notched a brace of goals on the night, stopped to talk. When one journalist innocently asked why he didn’t celebrate … [Read more...] about La Liga: Ronaldo’s sulk overshadows Real Madrid win
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Rajoy prepares for an autumn of discontent
They call it operación retorno: hundreds of thousands of Spaniards get into their cars at the end of their holidays and drive back to their towns and cities to resume their lives. This year, like most, it has seen endless queues of overheated cars fill Spain’s roads on the last weekend of August, peopled by families dreading the return to the office or school. Just eight months into his tenure and with a handsome majority in Congress, Mariano Rajoy should be bounding back to work with a springier step than most. But instead, the prime minister could be forgiven for wishing he were in one of those sweaty, late-summer traffic jams. Rajoy’s honeymoon period finished months ago, if indeed … [Read more...] about Rajoy prepares for an autumn of discontent
A new take on the American abroad
Young American poet Adam Gordon is a fraud and a bastard. And the fact he’s spending a year in Madrid, as the recipient of a prestigious fellowship, is thanks to total pretence. Officially, he’s in the Spanish capital to write a “long and research-driven poem… about the literary response to the Civil War.” But Adam intends doing no such thing (thank god). Instead he smokes pot, takes prescription drugs, forms wafer-thin relationships and frets constantly about the validity of his experiences. If that narrative risks coming off as trite, then Leaving the Atocha Station, by American poet Ben Lerner (who spent a year in Madrid as a Fulbright scholar), is far from it. The book, which is thin … [Read more...] about A new take on the American abroad
La Liga: Getafe upset leaves Real Madrid still seeking a win
El Derbi madrileño may be a forgone conclusion most years, with Atlético Madrid rolling over every time for their neighbours, but Real Madrid are always given a much tougher time by their other cross-city rivals, Getafe. Jose Mourinho’s men took to the pitch on Sunday night looking to collect three points for the first time this season. Instead they left with none. They began comfortably when Gonzalo Higuaín – who has an excellent record against El Geta – scored from close range in the 27th minute at the Coliseum Alfonso Pérez, but eight minutes after the break, the home side levelled when Juan Valera nodded past Iker Casillas from a free-kick. The visitors failed to capitalise on their … [Read more...] about La Liga: Getafe upset leaves Real Madrid still seeking a win
Land and liberty
It may be a slow summer; it may be that the world’s media can’t get enough bad news from Spain as the country sinks deeper into depression. In such a context, news editors are particularly susceptible to stories about latter-day Robin Hoods. Which is what Juan Manuel Sánchez Gordillo, the Communist Party mayor for the last 33 years of Marinaleda, a village near Seville, has been gleefully dubbed after he and groups from the Andalusian Workers’ Union that he helped found went into two supermarkets in early August and made off with trolleys of basic foodstuffs that they said they were going to distribute among unemployed agricultural labourers. Speaking to journalists after he and his … [Read more...] about Land and liberty
Basque Country enters an era of uncertainty
The announcement on Tuesday by the Basque premier, Patxi López, that the region will hold early elections on October 21 was a reminder of how much things have changed since he took power in 2009. Since López entered a governing partnership with the conservative Partido Popular, the terrorist group ETA has been increasingly weakened, culminating in last autumn’s announcement by the group that it was laying down its arms for good. The date of the scheduled elections – a year and a day after ETA’s announcement – is no coincidence. López himself was not coy about underscoring his government’s part in the new atmosphere of peace that the northern region is enjoying. “We have done what we … [Read more...] about Basque Country enters an era of uncertainty
Spain and Sod’s Law
One of the great enigmas of this summer in Spain, apart from the future of the economy, has been the country’s performance at the Olympics, belying the received wisdom that it is a world power in sport. As I write this, Spain sits 21st in the medal table, having finally won a gold, in the women’s windsurfing, 11 days into the Games, followed by a second in taekwondo. The medal haul so far of two gold, six silver and one bronze is puzzlingly poor. Spain is the reigning football world and European champion, the current Davis Cup champion (its fifth title in the last decade), its cyclists have won the Tour de France three times in the last five years, and its basketball players, many of … [Read more...] about Spain and Sod’s Law
A life in song
Chavela Vargas, who attained legendary status through her renditions of Mexican ranchera music throughout much of the Spanish-speaking world in her final years, died on August 3, at the age of 93. Born Isabel Vargas Lizano in Costa Rica, before being abandoned by her parents as a child, she moved to Mexico aged 17, in 1936. Her arrival coincided with the rise of ranchera music, which like country music in the United States, was initially a celebration of rural values, but soon became a format to explore themes such as the hopelessness of love, the sorrows of which are best drowned in the bottle. Vargas soon became part of the circle of artists and hangers on associated with painters … [Read more...] about A life in song
A dilemma for Spain’s Socialists
Leading an opposition party during a time of economic crisis should, in theory, be a straightforward job, with none of the worries and responsibility that governing in such times entails. But in Spain, that’s not the case for Alfredo Pérez Rubalcaba, who was chosen to continue heading the Socialist Party earlier this year, despite losing the 2011 general elections. Rubalcaba is one of Spanish politics’ canniest figures. Critics confer on him the sinister powers of a Rasputin, due to his alleged ability to manipulate issues and people behind the scenes. But his gift for communicating also puts most of his political colleagues in the shade. One television reporter tells of how, when making … [Read more...] about A dilemma for Spain’s Socialists
Gregorio Peces-Barba: symbol of the transition and staunch monarchist
Gregorio Peces-Barba, one of the authors of Spain’s Constitution, and an advocate of the role therein of the monarchy, died on July 24 aged 74 after being admitted to hospital a week earlier suffering from a kidney complaint and heart problems. From a well-to-do family that backed the losing side in the Spanish Civil War — his father, a lawyer and advisor to the Republican army, was given a death sentence, later commuted — Peces-Barba grew up in Madrid during the harsh years that followed General Francisco Franco’s victory, first attending the Lycée Français with exiled King Simeon of Bulgaria, and then the Complutense University where he obtained first a law degree and then a … [Read more...] about Gregorio Peces-Barba: symbol of the transition and staunch monarchist